Unforgettable Douro - Scenic Azure - Day 4

 Day 4 – Monday 1 July 2024

Group on Vila Real main pedestrian street

 

At 09:00 we departed for an excursion to the town of Vila Real. After a mooch along the main street and a glimpse inside Vila Real Cathedral we went through some side streets to Casa Lapão, a patisserie specialising in convent sweets. These use the yolks of eggs as in the olden time convents used the whites as starch.

Pastry and filling are made to a secret recipe by the owner and the staff turn them into the sweets. The day we visited they were making a pastry linked to the town, Cristas de Galo, or Rooster Crests.

Our group was split in two to enter the small kitchen by turn.

Owner with staff

The owner was there, but she employed an English speaker to tell us the history and explain what was happening. The two staff wore nun’s habits and worked away, making 600 a day.

A volunteer was called for and I put myself forward.

One ‘nun’ rolls a pastry ball very thinly. The other ‘nun’ adds a spoonful of filling in the middle, wraps the pastry over it and uses a zig-zag crescent cutter to represent the roosters comb. These are placed on a tray which, when full, is put in an oven until golden, then sprinkled with sugar.

The filling is egg yolk and ground almonds cooked together. My Cristas de Galo was pretty good, but not perfect like the professionals were turning out.

Afterwards we sat outside in the sun and a tray of Cristas de Galo was passed around with glasses of tawny Port from the local co-operative. The local guide came out and sang fado.

The combination of sun, Port, Cristas de Galo and fado was sublime and the highlight of the trip for me.

 After lunch back on the boat we had the second excursion of the day, this time our choice was to go to Mateus Palace. The palace is depicted on bottles of Mateus Rosé wines, though the property had nothing to do with the wine other than sell its image for use on the label.

Gardens are extensive and there wasn’t enough time to enjoy them all. 

At 17:00 we moved mooring to the other bank for quiet, we were told. Now we had a river view and we weren’t rafted. The bank we’d left filled with hotel boats from Ama, A Rosa, Riviera, Tauck and more.

At 17:00 we moved mooring to the other bank for quiet, we were told. Now we had a river view and we weren’t rafted. The bank we’d left filled with hotel boats from Ama, A Rosa, Riviera, Tauck and more.

In the evening we were invited to dine in Portobellos. Everyone gets an invitation, and as there were 72 passengers they did three evenings each with 24 diners. It’s something that Scenic trumpets about but I can’t see the point. In the main restaurant one has plenty of choice, in Portobellos there is a set menu. But Joan wanted to go, so we did.

Overnight Location: Lamego

https://what3words.com/stem.egos.minien