Day 7 - Chateaux, Rivers and Wine - Viking Forseti

 

Day 7- Saturday 26 September 2026

We left at 08:30 on the included excursion ‘Cadillac Walking Tour & Wine Tasting’. We should have cruised up the Garonne but Forseti stayed moored and we went by coach. Some guests had been told it was because of low water, but the river was still tidal at Cadillac. A room steward told me Forseti had cruised up river the previous week. I wonder if the tides were not convenient for passing under the very low bridge at Bordeaux. On my two previous cruises the order of cruising had been changed to take advantage of low tide at the bridge. Perhaps now with so many boats visiting the same sights it wasn’t possible to change schedules.

After 50 minutes we reached Château de Myrat at 09:20, a Sauternes winery in the village and appellation of Barsac.

The 1855 Classification also rated the sweet white wines of Sauternes into two levels, plus one wine – Ch d’Yquem- was classified Superior First Growth (Premier Cru Supérieur).

Château de Myrat heads the Second Growths (Deuxième Crus). The imposing Château has 22 hectares of land, of which 18ha of vines are planted to 88% Sémillon, 8% Sauvignon Blanc, 4% Muscadelle.

Whereas one vine in Medoc produces enough grapes to make a bottle of   wine, it takes one vine to make a glass of Sauternes. The climatic conditions of this area between two rivers, the Ciron and Garonne form morning mists which encourage a microscopic fungus - botrytis cinerea – to settle on ripe grapes. Its tendrils push through the grapes skin to suck out water.

Grapes left after rotted grapes have been picked. Some of these have now got the rot and will be picked on the next sweep of the vineyard.

As the grey fungus grows on its surface the grape shrivels. Botrytis cinerea (popularly known a ‘noble rot’) chooses only ripe grapes so the whole bunch cannot be picked. Instead pickers visit vines multiple times over six weeks, clipping out the rotted grapes which are then pressed for their nectar.

We tasted three Château de Myrat wines, the 2023, 2010 and 2000 vintages. All were delicious. The 26 year old wine was deep brown colour and had an intensity about it. I regret not buying a bottle and stuffing it in my overflowing case.

Sauternes intensely sweet and complexly flavoured wines used to be very popular, but not so much now, and the above were priced between €32 and €34.

There were also 100ml glass tubes that could be carried in hand baggage for €10, and shipping order forms for Canadians and Americans who wanted more.

Thomas Jefferson was a fan of Sauternes: in1790 he ordered 30 dozen for President Washington and 10 dozen for himself and in 1801 when he was President ordered 45 dozen more.

We left at 10:30 for a 20 minute drive to Cadillac, a fortified walled city defending Bordeaux up-stream. We entered through the sea gate tower which faced the river. It was market day and stalls lined the street and packed the central square. There was such an appetising display of fresh fruit and vegetables, and I wondered why I couldn’t get such wonderful looking produce at home.

We had a short guided tour during which we learned about the persuasive rogue who awarded himself titles, adopted Cadillac as his name, sweet-talked his way out of prison, became Governor of Louisiana in America, founded Detroit and after whom the car is named.

50 minutes free time was spent by us with coffee in a welcoming open-air café then at 12:20 the coach drove us back to Bordeaux and the ship in time for lunch. 

And that effectively was the end of the cruise. The afternoon was free, and the Captain’s Cocktail Party was at 18:30 before dinner.

During the afternoon, an ocean cruise departed, and for the first time I saw Pont Jacques Chaban Delmas lifted to let it pass.

Coq au Vin for dinner

On Forseti's prow, having enjoyed the last dinner of the cruise, now enjoying the last of the wine but the bar steward has brought me a glass of Graham's 20 yo Port.

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